Waxing Tips (the basics) Classic Skis




Дата канвертавання21.04.2016
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Waxing Tips (the basics)
Classic Skis
First step: Cleaning the kick zone (remove all kick wax)

-use plastic or metal scraper, (do not use your glide wax scrapers)

-take off as much as you can with the scraper then use wax remover for the rest.

-Kitchen scrub pads (the green ones) work great for getting wax off. Note you do not need to use too much wax remover. Also try not to get any wax remover outside of the kick zone (it will dry out your glide bases = slow skis down).

-Grooves and side of skis should be free of all kick wax. (sides often get forgotten)

-Optional: you may need to rough up kick zone again with sandpaper to ensure kick wax will stick. Only do kick zone! And don’t do it if skis are also used for skating.

-Mark glide zone with tape (tape is on the kick zone side)
Skis are ready to be glide waxed:

-find out what temperature is and pick suitable wax. Note: if you are unsure of temperature it is better to pick the colder temperature range glide wax. Warm wax on cold snow is very noticeable regarding glide whereas cold wax on warm snow is not as bad.

-iron should be at a temperature that does not cause it to smoke. Colder waxes will need a higher temperature.

-drip or crayon wax onto glide zone of skis. (remember not to do kick zone). Note: Crayoning wax is a good way and does not waste as much wax. Make sure you cover entire glide zone.

-iron in wax- (DO NOT hold iron in one place for long, DO NOT iron skis like you do clothes). Make a full pass down the ski. You may have to do this a few times. You should see the wax melt and then harden after you pass over it. Touch the sides of skis to see how hot the bases are. If hot to touch then iron is too hot or you are not moving quickly enough.

-don’t forget the groove. Just do a quick pass down it.

-Don’t over heat ski.

-after glide wax is on then let ski cool for 5-10 minutes.


Time to Scrape the glide wax off:

-make sure plastic glide scrapers are sharp (do not use metal scrapers)

-Clean out groove and sides first. Use pen like scraper if possible, klister scrapers can be too sharp and scratch skis if you slip out of groove. If scraping side of skis with your plastic glide scraper use the end not the main front as you do not want to damage that straight edge of the scraper.

-scrape in the direction of the ski (away from the tip)

-maintain EVEN pressure.

Time to Brush the ski:

-brush in the direction of the ski (away from the tip)

-do not place brush, brush side down on the table as it picks up other waxes.

-use plastic or copper brush first to bring up any leftover wax from the bases.

- use horse hair (black) soft brush last to polish skis

-try not to put hand/fingers on ski bases to much (who knows what’s on your hand!!)


Apply Base Binder or prep for race kick wax:

-Clean kick zone of any glide wax dustings. (do not get remover onto glide zone)

-move marking tape to outside of kick zone

-use heat gun to heat base binder (or very cold wax). Apply a thin layer to kick zone.

-Cork in so it is a very smooth layer of wax. Let cool for 5-10 min.

-once base binder is cold it is optional to apply a couple layers of blue (-2 to -10 wax) to build up the kick zone.


Done:

-Clean up (tools away and sweep table and floor clean of wax)



Skate Skis
Glide waxed: (same as classic skis except you don’t have the kick zone to worry about or avoid)

-find out what temperature is and pick suitable wax. Note: if you are unsure of temperature it is better to pick the colder temperature range glide wax. Warm wax on cold snow is very noticeable regarding glide whereas cold wax on warm snow is not as bad.

-iron should be at a temperature that does not cause it to smoke. Colder waxes will need a higher temperature.

-drip or crayon wax onto glide zone of skis. (remember not to do kick zone). Note: Crayoning wax is a good way and does not waste as much wax. Make sure you cover entire glide zone.

-iron in wax- (DO NOT hold iron in one place for long, DO NOT iron skis like you do clothes). Make a full pass down the ski. You may have to do this a few times. You should see the wax melt and then harden after you pass over it. Touch the sides of skis to see how hot the bases are. If hot to touch then iron is too hot or you are not moving quickly enough.

-don’t forget the groove. Just do a quick pass down it.

-Don’t over heat ski.

-after glide wax is on then let ski cool for 5-10 minutes.


Time to Scrape the glide wax off:

-make sure plastic glide scrapers are sharp (do not use metal scrapers)

-Clean out groove and sides first. Use pen like scraper if possible, klister scrapers can be too sharp and scratch skis if you slip out of groove. If scraping side of skis with your plastic glide scraper use the end not the main front as you do not want to damage that straight edge of the scraper.

-scrape in the direction of the ski (away from the tip)

-maintain EVEN pressure.

Time to Brush the ski:

-brush in the direction of the ski (away from the tip)

-do not place brush, brush side down on the table as it picks up other waxes.

-use plastic or copper brush first to bring up any leftover wax from the bases.

- use horse hair (black) soft brush last to polish skis

-try not to put hand/fingers on ski bases to much (who knows what’s on your hand!!)


Done:

-Clean up (tools away and sweep table and floor clean of wax)


Race Notes

Structuring of ski bases and application of high fluoro glide waxes may be done on race day by qualified coaches and wax persons.


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